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How to Train Your Dog
A guide to help you understand and train your pet and companion
1
How to Traiin Your Dog
Dog Behavior and Training
A well-trained dog is a joy to be around. It is easier to take him out in public and

have other people come to your home and enjoy him. By having a dog who is
under voice control, you can prevent your dog from entering serious situations
which could injure him or others.
Up until now, your puppy's training has consisted of a series of corrections when
he erred. You've been pointing out his mistakes after he's committed them. When
he jumps on the furniture, you push him off and tell him "No!" If he misses his
newspapers and stains your rug, you reprimand him with a stern "No!" and rush
him, belatedly, over to the newspapers. He's lived
and grown in a world of "do's" and "don'ts" and it's
all been very bewildering for the young pup. But
the time has come when the pup needs to be
taught simple commands that will permit you to
guide his actions. These simple commands are
what we will call the pup's formal training.
Basically, the formal training is a command and
response program; you issue the commands with
the proper voice inflections, gestures and
demonstrations, the pup learns to respond and perform the commands. He
repeats and repeats the action of the command until he learns to associate the
command with the proper action. It is the old "trial-and-error" routine. Eventually,
the pup learns the commands well enough to make them part of his regular
behavior pattern.
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How well he learns his lessons depends a great deal on what and how you teach
him. Make no mistake about it, teaching your dog the basic obedience
commands calls for plenty of perseverance and patience. But you have a very
important factor working in your favor. You are the pup's idol and he'll do
everything he can to please you. He wants your approval and upon this factor
you will base your formal training program. The pup will not spare himself in his
efforts to win your good graces. But you will have to help him by making it clear
just what you want him to do. You cannot expect the pup to make good marks in
his schooling unless he knows what you want and has the ability to do it.
How Do Dogs Learn?
Dogs learn by association, and they make associations whenever they are
awake and interacting with their environment. People like to schedule training
time, but for our dogs every moment of every day is training time.
Dogs make associations in two ways: one is called classical conditioning and the
other is called operant conditioning. Simply put, classical conditioning occurs
when the dog has a reflexive response to something in the environment. For
instance, when the door bell rings and your dog barks, it is a classically
conditioned response. In other words, the dog is not making a choice on whether
to bark or not. Its hardwired instinct is to warn the pack of a possible intruder.
Another example almost everyone is aware of is that in which a bell is rung as
dinner is served. Dinner being served causes the dog to salivate. It is a body
function which the dog cannot control. After some repetitions, simply ringing the
bell causes the dog to salivate because the sound of the bell has been
associated with dinner being served. Thus the dog's response of salivating when
the bell is run becomes a classically conditioned response.
The other way dogs make associations is called ‘operant conditioning.’ This is
the most powerful way in which dogs learn new things and is the basis for clicker
training. It works like this: The dog learns by ‘choosing’ to do behavior 'A', so it
3
can make something 'B' happen. A simple example is begging at the table. The
dog smells food being served and sits close to the table while people are eating.
The dog may try all kinds of behaviors next to each individual at the table to see
what happens. Finally, after not much success with anyone else, it sits next to
Grandma. The dog cocks its head and gives the cutest eye contact Grandma's
ever seen. Overwhelmed that the dog is showing such affection for her,
Grandma sneaks dog a nice chunk of roast beef. BINGO...dog has learned to
beg at the table sitting next to Grandma by giving cute looks. It will now try to
give the same cute face to other members of the family and duly note who
delivers on it!
This is operant conditioning. The dog chooses a behavior ('A' = cute face) which
makes something good ('B' = roast beef) happen. When a dog chooses to do
something on its own and the reward for it is quick, a lot of repetitions to learn the
behavior is not necessary. Learning can occur immediately and last a very long
time. Behaviors which the dog chooses to do are behaviors the dog fully
understands and can easily repeat.
In clicker training we use the clicker to harness the power of operant
conditioning. The clicker is first classically conditioned to food (food is the most
powerful of reinforcers for all dogs) by simply clicking the clicker and giving a
small piece of food. Then, once the dog understands that the "click" means food
is coming, we simply "click" when the dog chooses to do a behavior we like, "sit"
for instance, and provide something good: a morsel of food. The dog will sit
again and again to make the "click" happen which predicts the food being served.
Most interestingly, not a word needs to be said to the dog to make this happen!
4
Understanding Canine Language
Dogs display so many reactions with their ears, their mouths, their tails and with
the whole stance of their bodies that you must have asked yourself why they do it
and how much of it really means something. A basic understanding of the canine
language will help in establishing a communication channel vital in dog training.
The most difficult thing to learn to do is anticipate your dog as they can seem to
do things without warning. They actually do
tell us what they are thinking, they use their
eyes to convey what they are about to do
and the position of their head and ears. By
learning to read your dog by watching for
changes in their posture, head position and
bodily tension you will be able to anticipate
their thoughts and then prevent them from
going forward and carrying out that
thought. This then keeps your dog in a
calm submissive state of mind. Be sure
that you understand canine body language. To keep your pet (and yourself) safe,
its critical that you be able to recognize the difference between play and
aggressive postures. Many problems can be prevented if you know what to look
for. Learn what to do in case of a dog fight.
Fundamentally, dog training is about communication. From the human
perspective, the handler is communicating to the dog what behaviors are correct,
desired, or preferred in what circumstances and what behaviors are undesirable.
A handler must understand communication from the dog. The dog can signal that
he is unsure, confused, nervous, happy, excited, and so on. The emotional state
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of the dog is an important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is
stressed or distracted will not learn efficiently.
Reward and punishment
Most training revolves around establishing consequences for the dog’s behavior.
Operant conditioning defines these following four types of consequences.
· Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the
chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
· Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase
the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
· Positive punishment adds something to the situation to decrease the
chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
· Negative punishment removes something from the situation to decrease
the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
· Most trainers claim that they use "positive training methods." Generally,
this means using reward-based training to increase good behavior rather
than physical punishment to decrease bad behavior.
Dogs should not be punished by being placed
within a cage, crate or carrier, especially one
similar to where they eat or sleep. While this
may confine the dog from further disruptive
behaviour, and also may seem similar to
"sending a child to their room" as a form of
punishment, the dog's mind will unfortunately
begin to associate the cage with punishment,
and will experience anxiety if put into the
container, as a result of the negative feelings
associated with it. Punishment involving
confinement is an unusual and confusing type
of situation for a dog, and should not be used for proper punishment.
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Rewards
Positive reinforcers can be anything that the dog finds rewarding - special food
treats, the chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the
owner's attention. The more rewarding a dog finds a particular reinforcer, the
more work he will be prepared to do in order to obtain the reinforcer. Just being
happy about a dog's accomplishment is a reward to them.
Does your dog understand you?
During training, you want to be firm. Always use
the same word for each command and say the
word clearly. Never punish your dog when he
does not do what you want but, instead, use
positive reinforcement when he does do what
you want. Punishing or scolding will only confuse
your dog so have patience when he is not
behaving the way you want – the best thing to do
is ignore him and he will soon learn that he only gets the reward when he
performs the desired action.
Try to work on training every day at first. As your dog learns more and more
commands, you can slack off a bit, but training should always be a part of your
relationship with your dog. It can be fun and rewarding for both of you to keep
learning new behaviors and taking the training to the next level.
Dog training is a task that takes, consistence, persistence and patience but your
efforts will be well rewarded with a well behaved dog as well as a stronger bond
with him. Training your dog properly insured not only his safety, but the safety of
every family member and it can also be a lot of fun for both of you!
7
Behavioral Problems and Training
Let us delve lightly into the background of abnormal behavior. It may be
functional or organic. A dog that is confined all day to a small apartment and
seeks release from his stored-up energy by chewing the rugs or furniture is
showing signs of functional abnormal behavior. When a rabid dog runs through
the streets, snapping at people and animals in his path, he is suffering from a
disease that affects his behavior. This would be organic abnormal behavior. In
many cases, the trend of functional abnormal behavior can be altered. Functional
abnormal behavior can also be prevented. But the outcome of organic abnormal
behavior depends on the prognosis of the disease. In the case of rabies, there is
no cure and the abnormal behavior ends with the death of the dog.
Dr. J. P. Scott, who has been responsible for shedding considerable light on the
abnormal behavior of dogs, points out that there are four factors that produce
abnormal behavior in the dog. These are over excitement, lack of escape, lack of
adaptation, and genetic susceptibility. All four of these factors must be present at
one time. The presence of one or two will not produce prolonged or harmful
effects.
Overexcitement: Any situation or stimulus that tends to overexcite the dog will
contribute toward abnormal behavior. For example, the ringing of a doorbell or
telephone may overexcite the dog.
Lack of escape: When the dog cannot escape from the situation or stimulus
that is causing his overexcitement, he takes another step toward abnormal
behavior. Let us go back to the dog in the apartment who hears the doorbell or
telephone ringing. Since he is confined, he cannot escape from the sound of the
bells. Lacking a means of escape, the dog may bark, scratch at the door or howl.
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Lack of adaptation: If the doorbell and telephone rang continuously, the dog
would more than likely adapt to them. But these are sporadic stimuli and the dog
cannot or will not adapt to them. In some situations, the dog has no opportunity
to adapt. In others, the opportunity may be present, and the dog fails to adapt
and resorts to abnormal behavior.
Genetic susceptibility: You will remember that dogs are sensitive to sounds
and touch. Some of them are oversensitive and may be said to have a genetic
susceptibility. This susceptibility is usually related to a metabolic disturbance in
the dog's nervous system. This is the one factor contributing to abnormal
behavior that cannot be controlled. You can do something about the other three.
Dominance Aggression
Most dogs are content to let people be in
charge. As puppies, they quickly learn to look
to us to let them know what we want them to
do. Some dogs seem to have a harder time
with this. A dominantly aggressive dog will
consistently growl, snap, or bite when a person
does something, or asks the dog to do
something, which the dog does not like. This is
different than a dog that is assertive or pushy,
but will obey a firm command. This is also not the same situation as a dog which
has been pushed beyond her limit by cruelty or pain. A dominantly aggressive
dog has an inappropriate response to normal situations. The dog is trying to
control the situation with her reaction, rather than allowing a person to have
control.
How do you tackle aggressive behavior in your dog? As with any behavioral
problem, some basic guidelines apply:
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· Set up an appointment with your veterinarian, to talk about the situation
and have a thorough physical examination performed. Some rather
common health problems can make an otherwise even-tempered dog
aggressive.
· If your dog is aggressive towards people, be realistic with yourself about
the situation. If the way your puppy nips at you when she plays concerns
you, do not just hope that she will outgrow it, get some help to stop the
behavior.
· Increase the exercise. Dogs that get enough exercise are far less likely to
have behavioral problems - of any kind - than dogs that are couch
potatoes. How much exercise is enough? Most of us under-estimate the
amount of exercise our dogs need: many trainers and behaviorists
recommend 45-60 minutes of brisk exercise (until the dog is panting) twice
a day.
· Also keep in mind that many types of dogs were bred to do a job. Give
them the mental stimulation they need with obedience or agility classes,
field trials, learning new commands, etc.
The Chronic Barker or Growler
Barking is another mode of communication that seems to be more common in
dogs than other canine species. Again, this may be the result of human
encouragement. Certain breeds have been
bred to bark as part of their watchdog or
herding duties. Barking is used to alert or
warn others and defend a territory, to seek
attention or play, to identify oneself to another
dog, and as a response to boredom,
excitement, being startled, lonely, anxious, or
teased.
10
If we want to control barking, we need a dog that can obey us and relax. The dog
needs to look to her owner for behavior clues. If we can call her, have her lie
down (dogs do not bark as much when lying down) and stay, we are well on the
way to solving a nuisance barking problem. In addition, there are some common
principles we can use in modifying barking behavior.
First, in most cases shouting "No" is only going to make matters worse since the
dog is thinking you are barking too (and is probably happy you joined in).
Be consistent. Pick a one-word command e.g., "Enough" for the behavior you
want and always use that word in the same tone of voice. Everyone in the
household must use the same command and act identically.
Be patient with your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time, and
you need to take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog,
the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.
Reward the dog for good behavior. Positive reinforcement is much more powerful
than punishment. Physical punishment will do nothing but make your dog fearful
of you and break down the bond you wish to have with her. Food treats are fine
to use as a reward at first. Often, picking a very special treat like small pieces of
cooked chicken or hot dog will make the reward seem even better. As time goes
on, you will not give a treat every time, sometimes just rewarding with a "Good
Dog" and a pat on the dog's chest.
Do not hug your dog, talk soothingly, or otherwise play into your dog's barking.
Your dog may then believe there really was something of which to be alarmed,
afraid, or anxious. This reinforces her behavior and she will likely bark even more
the next time.
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Control the situation. As much as possible, set up situations to use as training.
Practice in short, frequent sessions, generally 5-10 minutes each.
The Biting Dog
When a dog wants to show his displeasure, he'll growl,
snarl or bite. He will also bite from fear and in selfdefense.
These are natural reactions and normal
behavior. But from our standpoint, any of these traits
constitute undesirable behavior. It makes no difference
if psychologists and animal behaviorists state that from
the dog's viewpoint there is just provocation for him to
bite—a biting dog is proscribed.
There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can
significantly reduce the risk if you:
· Spay or neuter your dog. This may reduce your dog's desire to roam and
fight with other dogs. Neutered dogs are 2.5 times less likely to bite than
intact dogs.
· Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people
and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal
social circumstances.
· Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training
classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good
obedience skills.
· Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games
with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or 'siccing' your dog on
another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands.
Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior.
· Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new
situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at
12
home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel,
keep him in another room.
Jumping on People
The Sit-Stay command is the key to training your dog to not jump up on people.
Even dog lovers don’t appreciate being pawed over or knocked back by an
enthusiastic canine greeting.
To teach your dog to sit and stay when greeting people instead of showing his
love with jumps and dog kisses, get a friend to come calling and follow these
steps, which assume your dog is already trained to greet callers from a controlled
Sit-Stay position:
· Agree on a time and put your dog on leash.
· Tell your dog to “Sit and Stay” when the doorbell rings.
· Open the door to your visitor. If your dog tries to get up gets up or jump
up, reinforce the Sit-Stay command and give a brief check if necessary. If
your pet gets excited easily, you may have to put him on the live ring of his
training collar before he takes you seriously. Less energetic dogs catch on
after two or three attempts.
· Admit your visitor and reinforce the Stay command with your dog.
· Your pooch naturally wants to say hello, but have your visitor approach
him, palm forward.
· Let your dog sniff your visitor’s palm, and then have your helper ignore
him. You may have to be right next to your pup to reinforce the Sit-Stay
command.
· Repeat this procedure several times until your dog reliably holds the Sit-
Stay while you open the door and greet your visitor.
· Repeat Steps 3 through 5 with your dog off leash once he seems to have
the process down.
13
Leash Pulling
A well-trained dog knows how to walk on a
leash without tugging on your arms. A dog
bouncing off the end of the leash like a
kangaroo may be amusing to look at, but
no fun if you’re the one holding the other
end of the leash.
Dogs pull because they’re more interested
in the sights and scents around them than in you. Your job is to train your dog to
be aware of and respect your existence at the other end of the leash.
To teach your walking companion not to pull, you need his training collar, his
leash, and a few treats. Take him to an area without too many distractions and
follow these steps:
· Attach the leash to the live ring of the training collar.
· Put the loop of the leash over the thumb of your right hand and make a
fist. As a safety precaution, don’t put your entire hand through the loop of
the leash or wrap it around your hand.
· Place your left hand directly under your right, holding the leash in both
hands as though it were a baseball bat.
· Plant both hands firmly against your belt buckle.
· Say, “Let’s go,” and start walking.
· Just before he gets to the end of the leash, say your dog’s name and
“easy,” make an about-turn to your right, and walk in the opposite
direction.
The way you’re holding the leash produces a tug on your dog’s collar and turns
him in the new direction. Make your turn with determination and keep your hands
firmly planted against your belt buckle. Turn and keep walking in the new
direction. Don’t look back, and don’t worry about your pup; he’ll quickly catch up.
14
As your pup scampers to catch up with you, tell him what a clever boy he is, and
give him a treat. Before you know it, he’ll be ahead of you again, and you’ll have
to repeat the procedure.
Destructive Chewing
Dogs chew when they’re teething
— like babies at the same stage,
they just can’t help it. They also
chew to show anxiety, boredom,
or loneliness. Teething is over
eventually, but addressing your
dog’s psychological reasons for
chewing may take more time and
attention.
Physiological need to chew: To get your dog through her teething period,
make sure she has both a soft and a hard chew toy, such as a hard rubber bone
or a real bone, as well as a canvas dummy. Don’t give her anything she can
destroy or ingest, except food items.
Psychological need to chew: A lonely dog may chew up anything in her path.
Make sure your dog gets enough attention from you — and that she gets some
strong chew toys. Should your dog attack the furniture, baseboards, and walls,
tip over the garbage can, or engage in other destructive chewing activities, use a
crate to confine her when you can’t supervise her.
Potty Training
If you’re training your dog or puppy to go to the bathroom outside, the outdoor
potty area can be a designated spot in your backyard or wherever you allow your
dog to do his business. Here are some housetraining do’s and don’ts to help your
outdoor trainee get to know his bathroom manners faster and more effectively:
15
Do’s:
· Do set up your dog’s crate before you bring him home.
· Do choose your dog’s outdoor potty area before you bring him home.
· Do notice your dog’s pre-potty routine.
· Do take your puppy out at least every one to two hours when you first
bring him home.
· Do use the same words and take the same route to the potty spot every
time you take your dog out.
· Do praise and treat your dog for using his outdoor potty spot.
· Do distract your dog if he’s about to unload in the house, and get him
outside to his potty place as quickly as possible so he can do his business
where he’s supposed to.
Don’ts:
· Don’t punish your dog for having a potty accident.
· Don’t give your untrained puppy or dog the run of the house unless you’re
right there to watch him.
· Don’t place your dog in prolonged solitary confinement, either in the crate
or in your yard.
· Don’t distract your puppy when he’s eliminating in his potty area.
· Don’t expect your puppy to hold it all day while you’re at work.
16
Skill Training for Dogs
Owning a dog is undoubtedly the wonderful experience and almost all the dog
owners would wish to train their dogs with the latest and unique tricks. It has
been noticed that many of the dog owners always keep on educating their dogs
with inspiring new tricks. For doing it in the better and appropriate way, just try to
gather the suggestions made by some experts in the fields as that may help you
achieve your goal easily yet quickly. Systematic methods make fun teaching the
dogs and the dogs too would lovingly reciprocate to your command and attempts.
Basic pet obedience training usually consists of the following behaviors:
· Sit
· Down
· Stay
· Come
· Wait
· Off
· Stand
· Walk on a Leash
· Leave It
Teaching To Sit
The Sit command is one of the simpler and yet most useful commands you can
teach your dog. It gives you a wonderfully easy way to control your pet pooch
when you need to keep him in one place. Teaching your dog what the word sit
means is quite easy and quick:
· Show your dog a small, bite-sized treat, holding it just a little in front of his
eyes, slightly over his head.
17
· Say “Sit” as you bring your hand above your dog’s eyes, about two inches
above his head. When your dog looks up at the treat, he should naturally
sit. Putting your hand in the right place is important. If your hand is too
high, your dog will jump up; if it’s too low, he won’t sit.
· When your dog sits, give him the treat and tell him what a good doggy he
is.
· Praise him without petting him. If you pet him at the same time as you
praise him, he’ll probably get up, when you really want him to sit. If your
dog doesn’t respond on his own, say “Sit” again and physically place him
into a sit position by placing your left hand under his tail and behind his
knees and your right hand on his chest, and tuck him into a sit. Keep your
hands still and count to five before giving him the treat.
· Practice making your dog sit five times in a row for five days.
Some dogs catch on to this idea so quickly that they sit in front of their owner
whenever they want a treat. When your dog understands what the word “Sit”
means, you can start to teach him to obey your command to sit:
· Put the treat in your right hand and keep it at your side.
· Put one or two fingers, depending on the size of your dog, of your left
hand through the training collar at the top of his neck, palm facing up, and
tell him to sit.
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· If he sits, give him a treat and tell him how good he is while taking your
hand out of the collar. If he doesn’t sit, pull up on his collar and wait until
he sits, and then praise and reward him with a treat.
· Practice until your dog sits on command — without your having to pull up
on or touch the collar.
· Give your pooch a treat and praise him for every correct response,
keeping him in position to the count of five.
As your dog demonstrates that he has mastered sitting on command, start
rewarding him every other time, then rewarding him randomly — just every now
and then. Strange but true for dogs and people, a random reward is the most
powerful reinforcement. It’s based on the premise that hope springs eternal.
Now when your buddy wants to greet you by jumping up, tell him to sit. When he
does, praise him, scratch him under the chin, and then release him. Following
this simple method consistently, you can change your dog’s greeting behavior
from trying to jump on you to sitting to be petted.
Teaching The ‘Down’ Command
‘Down’ is one of the most wonderful
commands you can teach your dog. It
can get him to calm down and relax
after playtime. If friends want to pet
your dog, they might feel more
comfortable when he is lying down.
When you want to read or watch TV, your dog can lie next to you. Here's how to
teach your dog to lie down:
· Have your dog sit or stand. Let your dog sniff a treat you are holding, but
don't let him have it.
· Lower the treat to the floor, and as you are doing that, your dog should
follow it down.
19
· Be sure to say "Down" as your dog begins to lower himself.
· Your dog should lower himself all the way to the floor. You should be now
holding the treat between his front paws.
· Only give him the treat once he is on the floor. Repeat the word ‘Down’
many times: Say, "Good boy, down. Down you good boy."
· Practice this several times during the day and over several days.
Teaching to “Stay”
A dog can learn to stay in any
position. In order to do that, he must
be taught to stay in each of those
positions. You can teach your dog to
sit and stay, lie down and stay, and
stand and stay. What does stay
mean? Stay means DO NOT MOVE.
Your dog will not move when he
understand what stay means.
So first, you will teach your dog to 'stay' from the sitting position. Your dog will sit
and not move until you tell him it's OK to move.
· Have your dog sit; make sure he is sitting comfortably.
· Stand or sit in front of him, put the palm of your hand in front of his face
and say "Stay".
· Step away using your right foot. You should always leave your dog using
your right foot.
· Take only one or two steps, turn and stand right in front of your dog.
· You may repeat the word 'stay' a couple of times. Wait only a few seconds
and then return to your dog's side.
· When you finish, say "okay!". Get your dog to move and tell him he is a
good boy.
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· Do this several times over the next few days. When your dog seems
steady, you can increase the time that you stand in front of him.
· Then you can increase the distance, but only a little at a time.
· If you want to give your dog a treat, give him a small piece while he's in
the 'stay' position. Don't feed him after he moves, or he will think that he
got the treat for moving. You can also tell him, "good stay" while he is
staying.
You may practice your 'stays' from a down or standing position by following the
same steps.
Teaching to “Come”
Everyone wants their dog to come when
they call them and they want them to
arrive quickly. Coming when called is
simple if it is fun and rewarding for your
dog. It's also one of the most important
commands for your dog to learn. Young
dogs learn quickly. It's best to start
teaching your dog to come when he's a
puppy or as soon as you get your adult
dog. Calling your dog to you should
always be a pleasurable (happy)
experience. Always use your dog's
name, and reward him generously (lots of hugs, kisses, treats) when he gets to
you. You are his favorite person.
Informal Method
You can do this method anytime, anywhere. Little puppies just love to follow you
around. Use this behavior to teach 'come'. Play games running around your
house or yard and use your pup's name a lot. If he's coming to you and following
21
you, use words to help him learn what he's doing: "Jackson, come here! Good
boy, Jackson, come here. Let's play!"
Formal Method (planned lesson)
Have a friend help you. Use a treat if you like or just lots of enthusiasm. Find a
fenced area to work or do this in your house. Always practice in a safe area
where you puppy can't run away.
· Put a lightweight leash on your puppy, but it's not necessary. Have your
friend hold your puppy.
· Tell your puppy to "Stay" and you walk about 6 steps away. Turn and face
your dog. Your friend is still holding on to your dog.
· Say, "Jackson, come here!" (of course, use your own dog's name).
· As soon as you say "Come here", your puppy will run to you (let the leash
drag behind him, if he is leashed).
· Continue to say "Come!" or "Come Here" with lots of excitement so he will
learn these words.
· When he arrives, reward him with the treat or verbal praise ("Good Boy!").
· Turn your dog around and have him do the same thing back to your
friend. Both of you should have treats.
· Repeat this several times over many days. You can stay at a distance of 6
steps and gradually move farther away. Leashes come in lengths as long
as 30 feet.
Teaching to “Wait”
Wait is a lot like stay, only your dog doesn't
have to be still. Wait means: don't go past a
certain point.
You might use “wait” if you want your dog to
stay in the kitchen while you go to the living
22
room. With the 'wait' command, your dog can move anywhere in the kitchen, but
cannot leave. Here's how to teach the 'wait':
· Let's say you want your dog to stay in the kitchen, and you don't want him
to go into the living room, which is right next to it.
· A little bit at a time, start to back up farther away from the door.
· If your dog tries to come through the doorway, walk back to the door, with
him in the kitchen and repeat "wait".
· Stay close to the door until you feel he understands; then back up a
couple of steps. If he does that well, then you can back up more.
· Remember, these steps should be done over several days. Don't expect
your dog to learn it the first day.
Teaching "Off"
The word 'Off ' is used when you want to get
your dog's feet off of something, like furniture,
the fence, or someone's body.
It's best to set up a training session. Get your
dog or puppy to put his front feet up on a box
or your lap. You can also use a chair or anything that is comfortable for you and
your dog.
· Get your dog or puppy to put his front feet up on the box or your lap.
Praise and pet him. Shortly after, say "Off" in a firm, but gentle voice.
Praise or give him a treat.
· If your dog is on your lap and doesn't get off, you can stand up. Be sure to
say "Off" as you stand up.
When your dog is on the furniture: Whenever your dog is on something he
shouldn't be, say the word, "off" as you help him off. He will eventually connect
23
the action with the word. If you are directing your dog to get "off" of the furniture,
help him off if he needs it, and say "off" at the same time.
When you want your dog off of you: If your dog is on you in any way, jumping
on you, or climbing on you when you are lying on the floor, be sure to say "off" as
you help him off of you.
Teaching "Stand" or "Stand Up"
Why does a dog need to learn to stand? It is easier
to brush him when he is standing. It is also helpful for
your dog to stand up and stay still while a
veterinarian looks at him when he is ill. Bath time is
also easier with a dog who is standing!
· If your dog is lying down, gently slide your
hand under his belly until he starts to stand
up.
· As soon as he starts to move, say "Stand" and
tell him what a terrific dog he is. Tell him,
"Good boy, stand.", "What a good boy, you
can stand."
· If your dog is sitting, you can slide your hand under his belly like above, or
you can start by facing your dog, holding a favorite treat. As you step
back, your dog will most likely stand up to try to reach the treat. As he
does, praise him and say, "Good boy, stand".
· You may need to keep your hand under your dog's belly until he is
standing up and steady. He only needs to stay in this position for a couple
of seconds.
After your dog understands the 'stand' command, teach him to stay while he is
standing:
24
· Have your dog stand; make sure he is standing comfortably by checking
his legs. Put the palm of your hand in front of his face and say "Stay". Step
away using your right foot.
· You should always leave your dog using your right foot. Take only one or
two steps, turn and stand right in front of your dog. Praise him quietly
while he is doing what you want.
· You may repeat the word 'stay' a couple of times. Say it in a normal voice.
Wait only a few seconds and then return to your dog's side.
· When you finish, say "OK!".
Walk on a Leash
Dogs love to go for walks, but they don't want
to be pulled and tugged. Teaching your dog
how to walk without pulling will help both of you
to enjoy your time together.
First, you need a 4 foot leash and a collar that
won't slip off. Start by having your dog sit on
your left side facing front just like you.
· As you say "Let's go", take a step starting with your left foot. Using your
left foot all of the time will signal your dog that you are about to walk.
· Walk at your normal walking pace and talk to your dog while you walk. Tell
her what a good girl she is. You want her to be happy walking with you.
Keep talking to her. Make it fun.
· Go a few feet, then stop. You can praise her now. Or you can have her sit
and then praise her...as long as she stays with you.
· Practice for 5-10 minutes several times a day. Keep it fun.
25
Here are some things that are fun and help your dog to pay attention. They're
best to do after your dog understands how to 'walk on a leash'. If you like, bring
along some treats.
Activity #1: As you're walking, call your dog's name and then say, "Come!"
Immediately, start walking backwards. Your dog should turn around and walk or
run happily towards you. While you're backing up, gather up the leash as your
dog gets closer to you. Let your dog catch up to you and praise him.
Activity #2: During your walk, gently turn around and go the opposite direction
calling your dog so he goes with you. You will now be walking in the opposite
direction, both going the same way. You can do this many times so he learns to
go wherever you go.
Activity #3: While walking, make unexpected left turns, right turns, zigzags.
Praise your dog.
Activity #4: While walking, go fast, slow, and then back to normal pace.
All of these things not only make walking fun, but keeps the dog's attention on
you.
Teaching “Leave it”
"Leave It" is one of the most important things you can teach your dog. It could
save your dog from eating something that could hurt him. "Leave It" means don't
touch. With a command like "Leave It" , it is best to plan your teaching session.
This means that you decide when you are going to teach it to your dog.
· First find 2 treats that your dog likes. Then take the treats and your dog
over to a place on the floor or to a low table like a coffee table.
· Put one treat in your pocket and set the other on the floor or table right in
front of your dog's nose.
26
· As you set this treat down, you'll notice that your dog is staring at it and
drooling. As you set it down, say, "Leeeave It" very slowly and firmly, but
in a normal voice. Keep your hand right there. If your dog leans in to get it,
just cover it with your hand and repeat, "Leave It"
· Wait just a few seconds, then grab the treat and praise your dog wildly
telling him what a good dog he is. Then, give him the second treat you
have brought as a reward. Don't give him the food he is learning on.
· Repeat this game several times a day, just for a few minutes. As your dog
starts to understand what "Leave It" means, you may begin to move your
hand away just a little bit farther each time. Eventually, you should be able
to leave a treat on the table, sit in your chair, and be able to trust that your
dog will leave it alone.
Dogs love to put things in their mouths. But there are lots of things that dogs just
shouldn't touch with their noses or their mouths. You can tell your dog not to
touch food, plants, or any other item you don't want them to touch. You can even
use "Leave it" to tell your dog not to sniff another person or dog.
"Leave it" is a good thing to say when your dog has a fascination with something
wonderful, but something that he just shouldn't touch or put in his mouth.
27
Some dogs think it is their job to carry anything they want in their mouths. You
must teach them that this is not a good idea!
There are some things that your dog should not get into. Some plants are
poisonous and other things are just not for dogs. Telling your dog, "Leave it" will
give him the information that he needs to stay safe.
Ideally, when you say '"Leave it", your dog should back off and look to you for
instructions on what to do next.
Final Note
Having a dog at home is something good, but having a well-trained dog is
wonderful. That is why it is important to train them and teach them at least the
basics like how to behave, not to destroy objects from the house or sit on the
furniture and where they have to go potty. Having trained your pet on these
basics, you can leave your house confident that you will not come back to find it
ruined. With basic training, your dog will learn how to receive simple orders such
as sit, stay, down and come. The best age to start training your dog is when they
are puppies, this will help them learn faster and puppies are very sportive with
training. It is advisable to seek a professional to train your dog, but there are also
various tricks that one can apply. Dedication and patience is required for an
effective dog training. Never punish your dog trying to train or educate him. While
you teach your dog obedience, you need to teach yourself to be patient. This will
help effective communication between you and your dog and let him know who's
the boss and what he has to do. Training your dog isn't just to teach him dog
tricks and potty training, it helps to build a well behaved pet and companion in
your dog so you can both live in harmony.

 

 

 

1.       Use less energy when you cook. There are several things you can do to cut back on the energy you use when cooking. When boiling water put a lid on the pot and it will boil faster. Once it is boiling, turn down the heat (water that is lightly boiling is the same temperature). Most foods don’t require the oven to be preheated so don’t waste energy on this. When using the oven for cooking items such as roas ts, you can turn it off for the last 15 minutes and the heat left will finish the cooking. All of these can help you to use less energy in the kitchen.

 

2.      Thaw foods before cooking them. It takes longer – and uses more energy - to cook foods from frozen. Instead, think ahead about what you will be cooking and when and thaw it first. Likewise, take items out of the fridge before it is time to put them in the oven to bring them up to room temperature.

 

3.      Keep drinking water in the refrigerator. Instead of having to run the tap to get cold water every time you want a drink, keep a pitcher in the fridge. This will also help you avoid buying individual bottles of water that generate an unnecessary amount of waste.

 

4.      Run the water less when preparing meals. Next time you cook a meal, put a big bowl underneath the faucet and see how much water is collected every time you wash your hands, rinse your food, etc. You may be surprised how much water is being wasted. Reduce this by instead keeping a bowl of water in the sink to wash your hands in. Keep another one to wash fruits and vegetables in. This way you are only using that one bowl of water instead of letting the tap run.

 

5.      Look for paper plates that can be composted. The paper plates you are used to seeing in the supermarket are made from virgin tree pulp. They are then coated in a petroleum-based wax, which means that when you are done with them they cannot be recycled. But now there is a new type of paper plate made from “bagasse”. It is a left over from sugar processing and when used to make paper products is compostable. So now you can still be good to the environment and not have to do dishes after the family picnic!

 

 

Around the House

 

6.      Keep plants around the house. Plants are amazing at cleaning their environment. Having them in your house can reduce indoor air pollutants by more than half. Great choices are English ivy and peace lilies, which absorb toxic gases like benzene and formaldehyde. Just be sure that if you have pets and/or small children that you opt for plants that are not poisonous.

 

7.      Never flush your old medications. In almost everyone’s medicine cabinet there is expired medications. But whatever you do, do not flush them! That puts them into the water, which can be dangerous. Instead inquire at your pharmacy about whether they will take them and dispose of them properly. If they cannot handle them they will at least be able to tell you where you can take them.

 

8.     Don’t waste heat when the fireplace is on.  An open fireplace wastes up to 85% of the gas it uses because, like a wood-burning fireplace, the fire sucks heat from inside and sends it out through the chimney. Direct-vent gas fireplaces burn more efficiently and can save you money.

 

9.      Use less water when you bathe. Baths typically use less water than showers. So whenever possible opt for a soak in the tub. If you prefer showers keep them short. Ten minutes is way too long.  And be sure to install a low-flow showerhead and faucet to reduce the amount of water. You can cut back nearly 50% of the water used and barely even notice the difference.

 

10.  Install new toilets. Newer toilets use significantly less water than older ones. And the low-flush toilets not only conserve water but they actually reduce the greenhouse gases produced in the water-purification process. If you can’t afford to buy a new toilet, a great alternative is to place a plastic water bottle – with the cap on – in the tank. Doing so means less water is used for each flush.

 

11.   Have it fixed instead of throwing it out. With the price of many consumer goods getting less and less every year, it’s tempting to simply replace old electronics and appliances when they break. But often they can be repaired for a fraction of the cost. Not only do you save money, but you’re keeping that item out of the landfill.

 

12.  Hang your clothes to dry. The average household does more than 400 loads of laundry in a year. That is a lot of electricity to dry all those clothes! You can cut this down dramatically by hanging your clothes to dry. In the winter months opt for an indoor drying rack. When it’s warm outside you can move your indoor rack out to a deck or patio, or use an outdoor clothesline. There are many new styles of clotheslines available now tha t are easily removable when not in use or that can be elevated to keep them out of the way.

 

13.  Reduce the waste when giving gifts. Instead of wrapping paper, choose newspaper (the comics work great when they’re in color), reusable gift bags or even leftover wallpaper. When you receive a gift packaged in a reusable material be sure to save it for later. Also save your greeting cards and recycle them into gift tags.

 

14.  Reuse products whenever possible. Have you ever looked at just how much waste your family generates in a one week period? Manufacturers use so much packaging that it is easy for a family of four to have several bags of waste come garbage day. Next time you’re thinking of throwing something out, try and think of ways you can reuse it instead. For example old containers can be used for storage, stained clothing can be used as rags for cleaning and broken hockey sticks make great garden stakes. If you get creative you may be surprised how many new uses you can find for items you thought were trash!

 

15.   Donate things you don’t use any more. Instead of throwing out items you don’t use anymore, give them to charity. Old clothing, shoes, home décor items, sporting goods and toys are all happily accepted by charities such as the Salvation Army. You’ll have less clutter in your garage and your donation will help families in need.

 

16.  Say no to junk mail. So much paper is wasted on sending junk mail and flyers. Put up a sign on your mailbox refusing these items and send a message to advertisers that you want them to change their marketing techniques. If enough people do this they will eventually listen.

 

17.   Use cloth instead of paper. Using paper napkins and paper towels generates a lot of unnecessary waste. Did you know that the paper industry is the third greatest contributor to global warming emissions? So instead of paper, opt for cloth. A great source of rags is to use old clothes that are too stained or tattered to be worn anymore.

 

18.  Use rechargeable batteries. If yours is like most households, you have a lot of things that run on batteries. Everything from the TV remote to your camera. And if you have children you can add a seemingly endless number of toys to the list!  Do the environment a favor and use rechargeable batteries. They cost more upfront but they generate significantly less waste and in the end will save you money. Solar powered battery rechargers are even available online.

 

19.  Find out what you can recycle. Different cities accept different items for recycling. It is important that you know exactly what is being recycled in your area. A lot of people put out items week after week thinking they are being recycled when in fact they are being thrown in the garbage at the recycling facility. By knowing the policies in your city you can avoid buying products that are not sold in recyclable containers and you c an ensure you are putting out all of your garbage that can be recycled.

 

20. Dispose of hazardous materials properly. Most municipalities have programs for properly disposing of hazardous materials such as old tires, batteries, electronics, used oil materials and toxic substances such as paint and paint thinners. Be sure to inquire in your area about programs designed to keep these potentially dangerous materials out of the landfills.

Household Energy Use 

 

1.       Keep your furnace running efficiently. Your furnace is the most expensive appliance in your house to run. In fact household heating accounts for 60% of all energy used in the average home. Make sure it is operating as efficiently as possible by replacing its filter every two months. A great option is to purchase one of the reusable filters that can be washed on a regular basis. You’ll pay more for them b ut they last for years so in the end they cost less than disposable filters. The few minutes it will take you to properly care for your furnace can increase its energy efficiently by as much as 50 per cent.

 

2.      Install a programmable thermostat. Heating and cooling your house when no one is home – or when everyone is in bed – uses an unnecessary amount of energy. This is bad for the environment and bad for your checkbook!  Instead of wasting that energy, buy a programmable thermostat and set the temperature to be several degrees cooler (or warmer in the summer) during the n ight and when the house is empty. You can easily have it back to the temperature you like by the time you wake up or arrive home.

 

3.      Wrap your hot water heater in a blanket. Every hardware store sells fiberglass blankets that you can wrap around your hot water tank to help it hold in heat. They are easily installed (you can do it yourself) and usually pay for themselves in the first year of use.

 

4.      Opt for a tankless hot water solution. If your hot water tank is getting old and you’re considering replacing it, choose one of the new tankless hot water options. They heat water as you need it instead of keeping an entire tank heated and ready to go at all times. As a result they use significantly less energy, which is better for the environment. And an added bonus is that you can expect to save about 50% on your hot water heating costs.

 

5.      Keep your house cool naturally. Closing the blinks and curtains and using ceiling fans can dramatically decrease the temperature of your home during the heat of the summer. If you must use air conditioning, keep it at 75F and reserve its use only for the hottest days. A programmable thermostat is a great option to raise the temperature during the night and when no one is home.

 

6.      Replace your incandescent light bulbs. Although they cost more upfront, the compact fluorescent light bulbs will save you a lot of money in the long run. They use 75% less electricity than incandescent light bulbs and last up to 10 times longer! That means you pay significantly less for electricity and are not throwing nearly as many light bulbs into the landfill. If you were to change only five of the light b ulbs that you use the most often to compact fluorescent bulbs you could save more than $30 per year.

 

7.      Turn off the lights. A lot of people are guilty of leaving lights on all over the house. But remember that every little bit of electricity you can save counts! Make it a policy in your home to always turn the lights off when you leave a room. Same making sure that the television, stereo and computer are off when not in use. For outdoor lights, consider a timer or use motion detectors instead of always leaving outside lights on.

 

8.     Make sure your refrigerator and freezer are operating efficiently. Refrigerators that are more than 10 years old use approximately 60% more electricity than new models. To make sure you are not using more energy than needed, keep the temperature of the fridge at 37F and the freezer at 0F. This will keep your food at the perfect temperature without using excess electricity. Another great tip is to clean the condenser once or twice a year so that the motor does not have to run as long or as often.

 

9.      Use your microwave. Not all foods are great when cooked in the microwave, but there are lots of times you can use it over your conventional oven.  Since your microwave uses 75% less energy than your oven, it’s worth it to find new ways to use it when cooking!

 

10.  Unplug electronics when they are not in use.  Did you know that your television, DVD player, computer and kitchen appliances all use some electricity even when they are not turned on? Avoid wasting this electricity by unplugging them if you won’t be using them for a day or longer. And remember to unplug them before you leave home for vacations.

 

11.   Use countertop appliances over their stovetop equivalent.  When you are steaming vegetables or boiling water in the kettle, opt for countertop appliances instead of using your stove. They use significantly less electricity and get the job done faster.

 

12.  Only run a full load in the dishwasher. Before running a cycle through your dishwasher, make sure it is full. You’ll use less electricity and less water – and an added bonus is that your dishes will come out cleaner!  And always be sure to let your dishes air dry or use the cool dry option rather than using the heat dry setting. This alone will cut the amount of energy used for each load b y 15% - 50%!

 

13.  Change to digital dimmer switches. Although having dimmers on your lights is a great way to save energy, some of the older styles are no more efficient than regular switches. If you have a dial dimmer, check to see if the switch itself feels warm. If it does, you are not saving any energy by using it. Consider replacing it with one of the new digital dimmers to increase the amount of energy saved.

 

14.  Make your swimming pool more energy efficient. Pools account for as much as 60% of a home’s summer energy costs – and more in parts of the world where pools are used year round. Cut this down by as much as 20% simply by using a solar blanket to help keep the pool warm. Save another 20% by turning down your pool heater by a few degrees.

 

15.   Insulate your hot water pipes. Insulate the first meter of pipe leading into and out of your hot-water tank as well as any metal hot-water pipes running through unheated spaces in your home. This quick and easy project will reduce the amount of electricity you use and save you some money.

 

16.  Clean out your lint filter. Having a full lint filter in your clothes dryer can result in 30% more energy being used. Be sure to clean it out before every use and scrub it with a soft bristle brush every few months. To check and see if it needs to be cleaned, fill it with water and see whether it drains. Often tiny particles can clog the holes even though it appears that they are clear.

 

17.   Install motion detectors on your outdoor lights. Instead of leaving on your outdoor lights all evening, install motion detectors so they only come on when needed. This relatively simple change can save as much as 30% of the electricity needed for your outdoor lighting. 

 

18.  Keep your refrigerator and freezer well stocked. A half empty fridge or freezer uses significantly more energy than a full one. If you don’t have anything else to add, fill up bottles of water and put them where needed to keep things full.

 

19.  Work on weatherizing your home. If your house is drafty you are literally throwing money out the window. Spend a bit of time sealing up doors and windows to cut down on heat loss. Also be sure to check that you have enough insulation. In older homes the attic in particular can benefit from increased insulation. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for, it’s well worth it to hire a professional to do an energy audit.

 

20. Buy a slow cooker. Also known as “crock pots”, slow cookers can be used for everything from roasts to stews. Because new ones use only the same amount of energy as a single light bulb, they are a very energy efficient way of cooking.

 

21.  Stop losing heat. There are several places in your home where you are losing heat and may not even realize it. One that most people overlook is the electrical outlets. In particular in older houses where there is not much insulation in the walls. Stop this heat loss by putting in those little plastic child proofing plugs.

 

22. Turn down the temperature of your hot water heater. Most houses have the hot water heater set much hotter than it needs to be. As a result you end up having to mix a lot of cold water in to get it to a temperature that is useable. Make sure your hot water heater is set to no higher than 140F. That is hot enough to kill germs but not so hot that it is a huge waste of energy.

 

23. Investigate grants that will help you improve your home’s energy efficiency. Changing the way we live is becoming so important that in many parts of the world the government and energy companies are helping homeowners by paying – or at least subsidizing – energy saving measures. Find programs in your area by searching the web, calling your energy supplier or asking your local officials.

 

24. Request a home energy audit. A lot of utility companies now offer free energy audits to their customers. Check with yours to see what is available. You may be surprised at what you learn about how you are wasting energy.

 

 

 Kitchen 

 

 

25.  When buying your groceries, remember the four Ns. Choose food that is NATURAL, (meaning no pesticides have been used and it is as minimally processed as possible), NAKED (as little packaging as possible), NUTRITIOUS and NOW (in season).

 

26. Buy your food locally whenever possible. Most cities have farmer’s markets where you can purchase produce, meats, breads and baked goods from local vendors. Not only are you supporting your local economy, but these are usually fresher and healthier options. You can also talk to the seller directly to find out their practices when it comes to the use of pesticides, hormones and preservatives. An added bonus is that the food wasn’t trucked in which means less fuel usage and fewer emissions.

 

27.  Pack lunches in reusable containers. The amount of packaging used for food nowadays is staggering. Help reduce it how you can by opting for reusable containers when packing lunches. There are lots of options available in a variety of different sizes so you can pack everything you need. Be sure to include reusable silverware if needed as well.

 

28. Purchase products you use often in bulk. Single serving food products are a huge waste of packaging materials. By buying in bulk you cut down on the amount of packaging that needs to be thrown out and buying more at a time means less trips to the store to pick things up.

 

29. Compost your kitchen waste. Composting your fruits and vegetables is an excellent way to cut down on the amount of garbage going in to our landfill sites, and provides nutrient rich soil that you can use in your garden. Some communities are now starting city run composting programs so be sure to check for a program like this where you live.

 

30. Don’t waste water while waiting for it to heat up. Running the tap while waiting for the water to heat up is an unnecessary waste. Instead of letting this run down the drain, catch it in a pitcher or pot and use it to water your plants, save it for cooking or put it in the fridge as drinking water.

 

31.  Use less energy when you cook. There are several things you can do to cut back on the energy you use when cooking. When boiling water put a lid on the pot and it will boil faster. Once it is boiling, turn down the heat (water that is lightly boiling is the same temperature). Most foods don’t require the oven to be preheated so don’t waste energy on this.

 

 

Maybe this article forwarded to me by a friend goes someway to explain the next direction for the industry.

Russian super-rich build their own golf courses
Their penchant for super-yachts and owning football clubs is well known but Russia's tycoons are now shopping for a new rather larger status symbol: their own custom-built golf course.

By Andrew Osborn in Moscow
Published: 6:30PM GMT 01 Jan 2010

Shrugging off concerns about Russia's long snow-bound winters and the fact that many of their fellow compatriots can barely afford a set of golf clubs let alone a golf course, some of Russia's richest business people are pouring their millions into a pastime whose aristocratic overtones made it taboo in the Soviet Union.
"Only the super rich can afford golf courses," says Chris Weafer, a strategist at Moscow's Uralsib bank who keeps a close eye on how the oligarchs spend their wealth.

Chelsea Football Club owner Roman Abramovich is one of the tycoons taking the plunge in the country where he made his fortune. His spokesman said a sprawling course beyond Moscow's outer ring road is already "in the planning stage."
Metals tycoon Oleg Deripaska is ahead of the curve. He already has an exclusive £18.5 million Jack Nicklaus-designed championship course in Moscow. The initial membership fee is a cool £185,000 and the club says it is extremely picky about who it allows to join.
Vladimir Potanin, who made his money from Russia's vast nickel reserves, is also in the process of building a course, as is Elena Baturina, Russia's richest woman. But it is Andrei Komarov, a senator in Russia's upper house of parliament whose wealth comes from steel pipes, who seems to be the most committed. He is ploughing £370 million into a chain of golf clubs in three Russian regions.
It is an unlikely trend for a country that has little history of golf. Modern Russia's first course only appeared in 1989 in the twilight of the Soviet Union and even now the world's largest country only boasts 14 courses and around 15,000 golfers. Vladimir Putin, the prime minister, prefers judo and the sport was so alien when it first appeared in the 1990s that some wealthy Russians had to be asked not to park their cars on club fairways.
But in a country where status is king and the pursuit of exclusivity a national sport, associating oneself with golf is seen as a way to buy cachet and something that Russia lost when the Bolsheviks came to power in 1917: class.
"It is just an extension of the 'I've got the biggest yacht' mentality," says Mr Weafer. "It is a question of status and a toy. Many of these clubs appear to have no commercial purpose. They are trophy assets."
It is also a handy way for an oligarch to burnish his patriotic credentials. With golf set to become an official event at the 2016 Olympics, the Kremlin wants Russia to field a decent team. In Russian eyes, the Olympics, as in the Soviet era, are a global platform to flex the country's geopolitical muscles through sport. The fledgling Russian Golf Association has a Soviet-style five-year plan to ensure Russian shines at the games. It wants to boost the number of golf enthusiasts to 100,000 players by 2014, to increase the number of golf courses to 100, and for Russians to start winning both professional and amateur tournaments.

Golf Course Development which way now?

Just now the whole industry is part of a Mexican stand off at a crossroads everybody hesitating waiting for the other fellow to make the first move.

Is the trend for high end residential complexes going to continue?

Is the celebrity endorsement going to provide the added value it did in the past?

Can anybody afford to develop golf courses with sensible, affordable memberships and green fees?

Will the market support an increase in the number of courses in the developed golf world?

Who will finance development in the emerging golf nations?

The industry needs some movement (even if it is in reverse) on all of the above categories in order to allow investors to decide which way to go.

The required investment and potential rewards vary enormously depending on geographic location, construction specification and golfer’s expectations.

Recent studies carried out by KMPG highlight the variations of development costs with the Middle East easily the most expensive.

The report revealed that it has become significantly more expensive to develop a golf course more than 20% in the past three to five years across all three regions.
The report, an updated version of a study first conducted in 2005, showed that the design and construction costs (excluding investments related to land acquisition, clubhouse, maintenance equipment and cart fleet etc) of an 18-hole golf course now ranges between €1.5 (US $2 million) and €5.3 million ($7 million) in Europe, depending on location and quality, €5.1 million (6.7 million) in Southern Africa, and €9.5 million ($12.5 million) in the Middle East.

The high costs of developing a golf course in the Middle East were attributed in part to the focus on high-end and signature courses, which tend to be two to two-and-a-half times more expensive to construct. The Middle East is also an arid region which incurs much higher irrigation and water sourcing costs.

The cost and indeed the ultimate playability of new golf courses on residential developments can be controlled by the master planners working closely with the golf course architect when zoning the site.

When planners merely leave a tract of land, (often in a number of parcels) for use as a golf course and then expect the golf architect to plonk a course in, it invariably leads to compromises on safety, playability and can have a dramatic effect on costs. Additional road crossings, extra irrigation installations etc are often required.

Bringing the golf course architect on board at the earliest stage will pay enormous dividends in terms of controlling costs, maximizing golf frontage and ensuring land required for safety corridors has real value. For example why not use water for the safety corridor the value of a property overlooking water and golf course will command the highest premium.

Can we learn from the past? I think so!

In the early days of the golf explosion in the last century simple playable courses were constructed making work for the unemployed allowing developers and municipalities to hire architects to design public courses, courses built by hand labourers using shovels, wheelbarrows, rakes and picks. Several courses were staked out and the ordinary man or woman could play for very little. Hence the golf base grew.

Then powerful earth-moving equipment came along which allowed designers to become sculpture artist with the countryside as the raw material.

As the traditional site became either swallowed up for commercial development or embroiled in long winded planning procedures, the industry moved on to developing waste land, rubbish tips etc into artificial landscapes.

At the same time some extremely expensive developments were underway all aiming to be “championship” courses with viewing galleries ready for the day they attracted that major tournament.

The effect of this trend of course drove up the cost of participating in golf driving away Mr. and Mrs. Average who were playing on a budget; they took up some other form of recreation, football, soccer, hill walking, dominoes or what ever. This trend did not help the image of golf at all, the sport seen as elitist by many.

The time taken to complete a “championship” round is a factor which many sports men and women consider and in today’s environment time is money and four hours for a round is not a possibility.

The trend and fashion of golf course development does not approve of the inclusion of a pitch and putt facilities, it has to be an academy or an executive course. The average Joe and Josephine have limited time, limited funds, girls and boys just want to have fun, and the industry must cater for all our customers both current and future to prosper.

In terms of providing a vista for residential development a course built on a limited budget will still be green, if it changes colour with the seasons that is nature it does not need to be lush green wall to wall 365 days of the year?.

Well 2009 all but done:
What will be remembered? Will it be who won the race to Dubai? Will it be who won the Desert Classic? or any of the great tournaments we have seen this year.
I doubt it probably the most remembered episode of 2009 will be the intrusion into and the publication of Tiger Woods private life. That is a real shame the guy is probably the most talented and dedicated golfer we will see in our life time, his private life is his to lead as he chooses. He does not need our approval as the vast majority of us do not have any personal connection with him.

The lesson for everybody is if you are going to brand yourself make sure it is yourself that you brand not some PR guys image of what you should be!!

What do you think? Are the days of mega bucks for endorsing products and projects over.
We have motor racing personalities endorsing apartment blocks do you think they are any more likely than you or I to assess the design and suitability for purpose?

Would you be any more likely to buy an apartment because the building bore the name of a famous sports man?

Professional golfers endorsing the design of golf courses are in a much better position to comment on and contribute to the layout and playability of a course.

Do you think they have the time to assess the effectiveness of the irrigation system, drainage design and capabilities together with all the civil engineering and agronomic factors?

What do you think,